Training Tips: Calm Behavior at Home
Wouldn't it be nice if my dog could … Relax at home without getting into mischief? Stay calm when guests come over? Just lie by my feet so we could enjoy some quality time together after a hard day? These are all very reasonable goals! The good news is, there are simple exercises you can do right now to promote calm behavior in the home. The key is to reinforce, or reward, what you like and ignore or prevent what you don't (Check out: Stop Unwanted Behavior Without Intimidation). 
All animals, including people and dogs, are going to repeat rewarding behaviors that lead to things they want. Conversely, animals will stop doing behaviors that get ignored or aren’t reinforced (Watch: How Dogs Learn Animation). If you want your dog to be calm in the home, you have to make calm behavior rewarding for them by reinforcing it. Have you ever had a friend or child tell the same joke over and over again just because someone laughed? That's reinforcement! If no one laughed, the joke would die out naturally. (For more information on how dogs learn, check out our YouTube playlist: How Animals Learn & Why Behavior Works!)
Similarly, dogs remember the things that work for them. If nuzzling you gets you to pet them, a dog will continue to nuzzle you to the point that you may find it annoying. Same with jumping, running through the house, getting on the furniture, barking, whining, stealing shoes, etc. Your dog performs these behaviors in the house because they have been reinforced, whether intentionally or not (to learn more about reinforcers and rewards, read this article: Rewards).
Many dogs will escalate behaviors we find annoying to get you to notice them. Any attention from you, even in the form of reprimands, is a powerful reinforcer for dogs. For example, imagine your dog is jumping on you for attention and you say "No!" while pushing them off. From your dog's perspective, the jumping was effective because it caused you to give them attention by looking at them, touching them and talking to them. Some dogs even interpret you pushing them off as the start to a game! Alternatively, if your dog jumps on you and you turn and walk away, your dog will start to learn that jumping is not an effective way to get your attention. But in addition to ignoring behaviors you want to discourage, you also have to remember to actively reward what you'd like your dog to do instead.jpg?revision=1)
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We are all guilty of ignoring dogs when they are peaceful and quiet. Why mess up a good thing, right? But actually, this is a terrific time to go pet your dog or bring them a treat. Let them discover that being calm brings good things.
Of course, there will be undesirable things your dog will find fun and reinforcing without your involvement (getting in the trash, for example). This is because some behaviors are inherently rewarding. When a dog digs in the trash, they may find delicious food scraps, which makes it a naturally valuable behavior to them. That's where good management comes in (switching to a trashcan with a lid, for example).
Go to Your Mat
Introduce the verbal cue, “Go to your mat,” if you would like your dog to settle away from you, such as when you are fixing a meal or when you are eating.
To accomplish this behavior, practice Settle Down using a towel or mat. As your dog starts to associate Settle Down with the mat, they should start offering to go to their mat whenever it is placed on the floor. The presence of the mat becomes the visual cue. This is a great behavior to reward with lots of treats as long as they are on the mat. The rewards should stop if they get off the mat.
Once your dog is reliably offering this behavior, you may add the verbal cue, “Go to your mat,” when you are sure your dog will do the behavior the first time you ask. You will now be able to use the mat in different areas, as well as when you travel or want your dog to be able to relax quickly.
The Joys of Food Puzzle Toys
When does your dog lie still? "Ha, never!" you might think, and it's probably true for large chunks of the day. What
about when they are chewing on something? Don't almost all dogs lie down to chew?
Food puzzle enrichment toys, when paired with additional efforts to help your pup decompress and relax, can be an almost magical solution! They are long-lasting and, by their very nature, are different each time because you refill them with different food temptations. The idea is to stuff these toys so well that your dog will have to work on them for a good hour or longer at a time.
A dog who is laying on the floor working on their food puzzle is not running through the house, jumping on people, barking, getting on the furniture or stealing your shoes! By association, your dog begins to learn that being in the house is the time to relax and work on some puzzles.
After a good chew session, most dogs are truly tired — mentally and physically — and are more likely to remain calm for even a little while longer. Food puzzle toys are a great way to buy you and your family some peace and quiet AND begin to teach your dog to relax.
A great option is a rubber hollow Kong. It's indestructible and can easily be cleaned and used over and over again. Check out our Kong stuffing pointers, Kong Stuffing 101 video or the Kong website for clever ideas on how to stuff the Kong to keep your dog's interest for long periods of time. Also keep in mind that Kongs are great vessels for feeding your dog their meals — it keeps them mentally engaged for longer and requires them to work for their food, which will burn excess energy. For more ideas, check out our YouTube playlist: Enrichment Resources.
How to Use Leashes, Crates, Pens and Gates
Set yourself up for success. Think of practical ways you can prevent undesirable behaviors until you can get your training in place. It's OK to let your dog wear a leash or longer "house line" attached to a harness so you can lead them from restricted areas. Just make sure someone is paying enough attention to keep the dog from getting tangled.
Simply stepping on the leash or dragline can restrict your dog's access so they can't jump on you. However, only step on the leash before they jump, not as they are jumping. This will prevent frightening or injuring your dog by yanking them down abruptly (For more information on why we should avoid aversive methods, check out this article on Dog Training Aversives: What Are They & Why Avoid Them? and this video on Positive Punishment). To prevent injuring your dog's neck or esophagus, only do this if the leash is attached to a harness, not a collar. Calmly picking up the end of the leash will prevent all kinds of chase and "keep away" games, and will give you an easy way to remove your dog from furniture without confrontation or intimidation. Just be sure to reward with treats when your dog comes to you, gets off the furniture or follows you on the leash. We want them to associate coming to you and following you with good things!
If you rely on lunging for and grabbing their collar to stop your dog from getting into mischief, your dog will learn to avoid coming too close to you and will easily outmaneuver you. Also, this can make your dog more excited, or worse, scared of you, and you more frustrated and annoyed! Set up ways to manage unwanted behaviors, so you can remain calm and prepared.
Tethers, crates and exercise pens are great ways to begin to teach a dog to be calm in a house. Crates, when introduced properly, are terrific "holding areas" (like a playpen or crib for a baby) for up to a few hours at a time (Check out these videos: Crate Training Tips and The Importance of Choice in Animal Training).
Restricting access via baby gates and exercise pens can also help keep your dog away from restricted areas in the home. Make sure you give your dog something to do (a puzzle toy, a food puzzle toy, a bone, etc.) while they are confined so they have a positive association with the calm, quiet time (Check out these videos: Puppy Pen Set Up and Train Your Dog to be Calm in a Pen). Be sure your dog also gets these things (puzzle toys, food puzzle toys, bones, etc.) outside of confinement and in other contexts to maintain a positive association with these things and to prevent your dog from thinking enrichment equals crate. We don't want your dog to stop enjoying enrichment because they only get it in the crate or when left alone.
A tether can be as simple as a leash tied to a doorknob or sturdy piece of furniture or an inexpensive 18-inch cable. Make sure you are within eyesight when a dog is on a tether to prevent choking, tangling and other dangers. If you're unable to supervise your dog, opt for a play pen, exercise pens or baby gates, instead of a tether (According to California Health & Safety Code § 122335, tethering a dog for long periods of time can result in a warning or
misdemeanor. For more info, visit: https://www.animallaw.info/statutes/us/california).
Dogs generally make the best of any situation. If their only option for entertainment is the toys or chews you provide them, they will usually settle down for a nap. Take advantage of this by restricting your dog's access during periods when you'd like them to be calm. This is much clearer to your dog than YOU “joining in on the fun” by chasing and yelling!
More Help
Want to learn more about teaching your dog to settle down and relax? Check out our Reactive Rover: Mat Work class that focuses on addressing reactivity in the home or yard using mat work and the calm settle. Pick up “Train Your Dog the Lazy Way” by Andrea Arden or “Toolbox for Remodeling Your Problem Dog” by Terry Ryan for lots of practical tips and suggestions.
A good trainer, who is well-versed in modern positive reinforcement methods, can teach you lots more than you can learn in one article (Check out these videos: How To Pick A Trainer 101 and How To Find A Trainer Who Won't Harm Your Pet). San Diego Humane Society offers online and in-person Pet Training Classes. Enroll online to reserve a place for you and your pooch, or call 619-279-5961 if you have questions about which class is right for you!