Behavior is Functional!

Our pets' behavior is functional and depends on the environment, context and conditions around them. Behavior changes depending on what an animal is trying to achieve and what environment they are in. For example, your dog may behave differently when you have friends over for a party, than they would on a day when they are home alone. When your dog is home alone they may be craving social interaction, so they behave very friendly and outgoing when you finally get home — they are trying to get attention and affection! But, when you have friends over they may be overwhelmed and wanting peace and quiet, so they run and hide — they are trying to feel safe and cope with elevated excitement or stress! (For more information on how dogs learn, check out our YouTube playlist: How Animals Learn & Why Behavior Works!)

Animals don't understand "right" or "wrong," they just do what is valuable, rewarding and functional for them in the moment! This is why we refer to behavior as "desired" or "undesired" rather than "good" or "bad." Because behavior always serves a function, the key is to reinforce, or reward, the behaviors you want and make undesired behaviors no longer functional for your pet (For more information, check out: Dog Training Made Easy). We can do this by changing the environment to manage and prevent the undesired behaviors, ignoring undesired behaviors to prevent accidentally rewarding them with your attention, and teaching alternative behaviors that are incompatible with the undesired behaviors. For example, if your dog jumps on guest when they enter the home, you can manage and prevent this by putting your dog on leash or in a separate room before guests enter the home.  Additionally, you can teach your dog to sit before greeting someone, because your dog is unable to sit and jump at the same time! Have guests ignore your dog and move away when they jump and reward with attention when your dog isn't jumping. (Check out: Stop Unwanted Behavior Without Intimidation). 

Positive Reinforcement: Find Your Moment of "Yes!"

All animals, including people and dogs, are going to repeat rewarding behaviors that lead to things they want. So, if we add value to the behaviors we want to see continue, our pets will be more likely to repeat these desired behaviors. Conversely, animals will stop doing behaviors that get ignored or aren’t reinforced (Check out: How Dogs Learn Animation). If you want your dog to be calm in the home, you have to make calm behavior rewarding for them by reinforcing it (For more information, check out: Positive Reinforcement). Have you ever had a friend or child tell the same joke over and over again just because someone laughed? That's reinforcement! If no one laughed, the joke would die out naturally. 

Similarly, dogs remember the things that work for them. If nuzzling you gets you to pet them, a dog will continue to nuzzle you to the point that you may find it annoying. Same with jumping, running through the house, getting on the furniture, barking, whining, stealing shoes, etc. Your dog performs these behaviors in the house because they have been reinforced, whether intentionally or not (To learn more about reinforcers and rewards, check out this article: Rewards).

Many dogs will escalate behaviors we find annoying to get you to notice them. Any attention from you, even in the form of reprimands, is a powerful reinforcer for dogs. For example, imagine your dog is jumping on you for attention and you say "No!" while pushing them off. From your dog's perspective, the jumping was effective because it caused you to give them attention by looking at them, touching them and talking to them. Some dogs even interpret you pushing them off as the start to a game! Alternatively, if your dog jumps on you and you turn and walk away, your dog will start to learn that jumping is not an effective way to get your attention. But in addition to ignoring behaviors you want to discourage, you also have to remember to actively reward what you'd like your dog to do instead.

Reward Calmness

We are all guilty of ignoring dogs when they are peaceful and quiet. Why mess up a good thing, right? But actually, this is a terrific time to praise your dog or bring them a treat. If you don't want to excite them while they are relaxing, just sprinkle some treats right under their nose as you walk by. This way they won't even need to get up to eat the treats! Let them discover that being calm brings good things.

Of course, there will be undesirable things your dog will find fun and reinforcing without your involvement (getting in the trash, for example). This is because some behaviors are inherently rewarding. When a dog digs in the trash, they may find delicious food scraps, which makes it a naturally valuable behavior to them. That's where good management comes in (switching to a trashcan with a lid, for example). Additionally, we can try fulfill our dogs needs in other ways that are more appropriate and desirable to us. For more information, see the "Mental Enrichment" section below.

Now that you know why your dog may be performing behaviors you don’t like, here are a few ways to address those behaviors and encourage your dog to be calm while inside: 

Settle Down

The goal of this exercise is for your dog to learn to lie down quietly whenever you are relaxing or ignoring them. What's great about this exercise is that all dogs can do it! It is simply a matter of setting them up for success and waiting for your dog to offer any calm behavior. For a video example of a calm settle, check out: The Calm Settle!

1. Gather everything you will need. This includes a leash, a comfortable harness for your dog and a generous amount of pea-sized treats that your dog particularly likes. If you are going to use your dog’s regular kibble, use a portion of their meal so they are hungry, and mix in some high-value treats to make it a little more rewarding. You want your dog to be extra motivated when you first start any training, so the treats need to be tasty. If you would like to teach your dog the “Go to your Mat” game (see below), you will also need a towel, mat or blanket for your dog to lie on.
2. Set the scene: You will need something for YOU to do — a book to read, TV to watch, computer work etc. Be sure to have the treats in your treat pouch or an open container out of your dog’s reach and out of sight so that your dog does not become over-aroused simply because they see you have treats. The idea is for your dog to be calm or even bored. If you're using a mat, lay it on the ground next to where you will be sitting. The mat serves as a visual cue for your dog. Once they understand the exercise, your dog will know that it's time to relax when they see you laying out the mat.
3. Set up for success: If your dog likes to chew on the leash, try putting a piece of PVC pipe on the leash or attaching a chew-proof leash to the harness. If your dog is easily distracted by noises or activity outside the windows, start in the quietest part of the home and close the curtains to prevent your dog from seeing and hearing distractions passing by. If your dog is easily excited by high-value treats, use lower value treats to avoid hyperarousal. 
4. Bring your dog into the room where you are going to train. Go directly to your chair or couch. Sit down with the leash (you may hold the leash in your hand, under your foot, or tie it to a table leg). The leash should be loose, so your dog should have just enough length of the leash to be able to stand up or lie down with little room for exploring. If your dog is able to wander away from you or the mat, shorten the leash. 
5. Start dropping treats on the mat for your dog to find. Drop a small handful of treats when you first begin. Be sure to reward the absence of behaviors you don’t like. For instance, if your dog sometimes barks at you for attention or chews on the leash and they aren't doing either of those things, reward that! Even if it appears that you are rewarding “nothing,” that’s okay — it means your dog is not doing the things you don’t like! The goal is for your dog to continue doing "nothing" and remain relaxed. "Nothing" is the absence of undesired behaviors!
6. As you drop treats for your dog being calm, just sit quietly near them. You should drop treats every 3-10 seconds, depending on your dog’s attention span. The shorter the attention span, the faster the treats should fall when you first start — you can slow them down later. During this process, be sure you are not talking to your dog, touching them or making eye contact with them. All of these can be arousing and exciting to dogs and the goal is to get your dog to relax by maintaining low arousal levels. If your dog barks or whines, pretend you do not hear (or care!). If your dog nuzzles you, ignore it. If your dog jumps on you, gently lean forward or stand up slowly, so they drop off without you having to touch them with your hands, look at them or talk to them. Refuse to acknowledge any attempts to get your attention. The moment they give up and stop trying to get your attention, reward with treats!
7. While pretending not to pay attention to your dog, carefully watch for any calming behaviors, such as sitting near you or laying down. If your dog becomes bored enough to lie down — perfect! Give them a “jackpot” (about four to six small treats)! Pro tip: Sprinkle the treats between their front paws to encourage them to continue laying down. Whether they are lying down or calmly sitting, be sure to reinforce all calmness by placing a couple of treats right in front of them so that they eat them off of the mat and don't have to stand up or move to reach the treats. Do not talk to them, make eye contact or pet them, as this can cause excitement. The idea is to get your dog to stay put while being quiet.
8. Change location: After about 5-10 minutes of successful calm behavior without any excitable behavior, gather your stuff and move yourself and your dog to another location in the same room. Sit down without talking to your dog and wait again for them to settle down in the new place. Reinforce with treats when they do. Gradually increase the time between treats.
9. Add a release word: When you want to end the exercise, tell your dog, "All Done" or "Free," in a matter-of-fact tone of voice and turn them loose (For information about the importance of your tone of voice, check out this video on How to use Your Voice as a Training Tool). If you are using a mat, pick up the mat and put it out of sight until next time. Pro tip: Always end a training session on a good note, before your dog loses interest or gets frustrated. 
10. Practice with and without a mat: Once you are successful with this exercise using a mat, you can start to practice without the mat. Your dog will learn that when you are busy, they should relax and lie down, wherever you might be. You can still use your mat when you would like your dog to have something comfortable to lie on or to give them a visual cue in more distracting environments. But practice without it as well, so your dog doesn’t develop too strong of an association with the mat when settling down. We want your dog to be able to relax, even when you're not around to put down a mat. 
11. Increase difficulty: After your dog is good at resting with you sitting down, practice it while standing with your dog on leash. This will teach them resting is a good thing, even when you are standing or doing something else. All your dog has to do is lie down and good things will happen. Eventually, this will become such a habit that they won’t even think about the treats — it will become something they do, just in case the treats might appear from the sky! 

Go to Your Mat

Introduce the verbal cue, “Go to your mat,” if you would like your dog to settle away from you, such as when you are fixing a meal, when you are eating or when grabbing a package form your front porch.

To accomplish this behavior, practice "Settle Down" using a towel or mat. As your dog starts to associate "Settle Down" with the mat, they should start offering to go to their mat whenever it is placed on the floor. The presence of the mat becomes the visual cue. This is a great behavior to reward with lots of treats as long as they are on the mat. The rewards should stop if they get off the mat.

Once your dog is reliably offering this behavior, you may add the verbal cue, “Go to your mat,” when you are sure your dog will do the behavior the first time you ask. You will now be able to use the mat in different areas, as well as when you travel or want your dog to be able to relax quickly.

Mental Enrichment

Mental enrichment is important for all animals, but especially those who are energetic and easily overexcited. Mental enrichment is anything that works your pet's brain and fulfills their natural species-specific needs. Think: puzzles, brain games, sniffing, foraging, digging, licking, hunting and even training! You can utilize enrichment to tire your dog out and promote relaxation because it burns energy and relieves stress.

When does your dog lie still? "Ha, never!" you might think, and it's probably true for large chunks of the day. What about when they are chewing on something? Don't almost all dogs lie down to chew?

Food puzzle enrichment toys, when paired with additional efforts to help your pup decompress and relax, can be an almost magical solution! They are long-lasting and, by their very nature, are different each time because you refill them with different food temptations. The idea is to stuff these toys so well that your dog will have to work on them for a good hour or longer at a time.

A dog who is laying on the floor working on their food puzzle is not running through the house, jumping on people, barking, getting on the furniture or stealing your shoes! By association, your dog begins to learn that being in the house is the time to relax and work on some puzzles. 

After a good chew session, most dogs are truly tired — mentally and physically — and are more likely to remain calm for even a little while longer. Food puzzle toys are a great way to buy you and your family some peace and quiet and begin to teach your dog to relax.

A great option is a rubber, hollow Kong. It's nearly indestructible and can easily be cleaned and used over and over again. Check out our Kong stuffing pointers, Kong Stuffing 101 video or the Kong website for clever ideas on how to stuff the Kong to keep your dog's interest for long periods of time. Also keep in mind that Kongs are great vessels for feeding your dog their meals — it keeps them mentally engaged for longer and requires them to work for their food, which will burn excess energy. But, food puzzles are just one form of enrichment! There are so many ways you can fill your dog's cup while helping them calm down.

• Give your dog a job! Dig into our YouTube playlist: Enrichment Resources. Check out our articles, Enrichment: Indoor Activities and Enrichment: Brain Games for Mental Health.
• Consider Nose Work: K9 Nose Work classes. Check out this article on The Importance of Sniffing.
• Physical exercise followed by a cool down period: Check out this article, Exercising With Your Dog. After a run, long walk or high energy play session, it is important to help your dog cool down and calm down. If your dog is unable to come down from the excitement and arousal of exercise it can have the opposite effect — rather than tiring your dog out, it can amp up your dog even more. Help your dog decompress by offering them a form of calming mental enrichment and a quiet place to chill.
• Additional enrichment ideas: Canine Enrichment (Facebook)

Management: Leashes, Crates, Pens and Gates

Set yourself (and your dog) up for success. Think of practical ways you can prevent undesirable behaviors until you can get your training in place. As pet parents or animal trainers, we can manage and manipulate the environment, in order to modify our pets' behavior. If behavior is functional, we can change the environment to make a certain undesired behavior no longer functional for our pet! For example, if your dog is chewing on your shoes, the function of this behavior is satisfy their desire to chew, play and burn energy. You can restrict your dog's access to your shoes to set your dog up for success by leaving your shoes in a closed closet or placing them out of reach. Additionally, we can offer your dog alternatives (i.e. toys, bones and enrichment items, etc.) to make chewing on your shoes no longer necessary for your dog. By fulfilling that need in different, more appropriate ways, we are providing your dog with a more desirable way to perform this very natural behavior (For more help with this behavior challenge, check out: Destructive Chewing). Or if your dog barks every time the neighbor walks their dog by the window, you can close the blinds or curtains during that time of day, so they can no longer see the other dog. Now the barking — a way your dog communicates fear, excitement, or frustration towards the neighbor dog — is no longer necessary, because they cannot see each other (For more help with this behavior challenge, check out: Barking - What's the Fuss About?). Management should always be done before training, because training may not be necessary after the environment is manipulated to address an issue.

Here are ways you can curate your home to create a relaxing, stress-free environment to promote calmness for your dog:

• Create No-Go Zones, if necessary. Restricting access via baby gates and exercise pens can help keep your dog away from restricted areas in the home.
• Success Stations: Create a success station for your dog —  a dog-proof area where they can decompress and choose appropriate behaviors.Play pens, crates and exercise pens are great ways to begin to teach a dog to be calm in a house. Crates, when introduced properly, are terrific "holding areas" (like a playpen or crib for a baby) for up to a few hours at a time (Check out these videos: Crate Training Tips and The Importance of Choice in Animal Training). Dogs generally make the best of any situation. If their only option for entertainment is the toys or chews you provide them, they will usually settle down for a nap. Take advantage of this by restricting your dog's access during periods when you'd like them to be calm. This is much clearer to your dog than YOU “joining in on the fun” by chasing and yelling!
• Create Calm and Quiet: All pets need somewhere calm and quiet to relax, decompress and sleep. Promote relaxation by decreasing your dog's exposure to triggers (things that excite or stress them). Close the blinds, dim the lights, turn on calming music or sounds, and encourage nap time!
• Doggy Time Out: If your dog is over aroused and frantically jumping or mouthing consistently, use the leash to gently lead them into a calmer area of the home (i.e. dog-proofed room, play pen, backyard, etc.) to enjoy some alone time and decompress from the excitement or stress. DO NOT yell at your dog, say "No!" or forcefully put them in their success station. This is NOT supposed to be a form of punishment, intimidation, or confrontation, it is simply a way to encourage your dog to calm down, while setting them up for success so they cannot continue to practice undesired behaviors. We DO NOT want to cause your dog fear, discomfort or additional stress and frustration. Make sure you give your dog something to do (a puzzle toy, a food puzzle toy, a bone, etc.) while they are confined so they have a positive association with the calm, quiet time (Check out these videos: Puppy Pen Set Up and Train Your Dog to be Calm in a Pen). Be sure your dog also gets these things (puzzle toys, food puzzle toys, bones, etc.) outside of confinement and in other contexts to maintain a positive association with these things and to prevent your dog from thinking enrichment equals crate. We don't want your dog to stop enjoying enrichment because they only get it in the crate or when left alone.
• On-Leash inside? Yes! Why not? It's OK to have your dog wear their harness and a leash or long "house line" inside the home. If your dog is struggles with appropriate, calm behavior in the home or is becoming over aroused, you can utilize a leash to prevent them from getting into mischief. Use their leash to lead them away from restricted areas, prevent them from jumping on guests, children or furniture, or to keep close to you. Just make sure someone is always supervising your on-leash dog and paying enough attention to keep the dog from getting tangled.
• Manage Jumping: Simply stepping on the leash or dragline can restrict your dog's ability to jump on you or your guests. However, only step on the leash before they jump, not as they are jumping. This will prevent frightening or injuring your dog by yanking them down abruptly (For more information on why we should avoid aversive methods, check out this article on Dog Training Aversives: What Are They & Why Avoid Them? and this video on Positive Punishment). To prevent injuring your dog's neck or esophagus, only do this if the leash is attached to a harness, not a collar or slip lead. If your dog is already jumping, turn your back to your dog and slowly move away. Wait for them the stop jumping, then reward with treats or affection.
• Prevent encouraging high-energy, inappropriate behaviors. Calmly and nonchalantly picking up the end of the leash will prevent all kinds of chase and "keep away" games, and will give you an easy way to remove your dog from furniture without confrontation or intimidation. If your dog is engaging in undesired behaviors, redirect to them an alternative, appropriate activity to do instead. DO NOT make a big deal about the undesired behavior, as this can unintentionally reinforce it. This is because your dog can interpret your big reaction as attention or a fun game.
• Have treats on hand and add value to desired behaviors. Be sure to reward with treats when your dog comes to you, gets off the furniture or follows you on the leash. We want them to associate coming to you and following you with good things! If you rely on lunging for and grabbing their collar to stop your dog from getting into mischief, your dog will learn to avoid coming too close to you and will easily outmaneuver you. Also, this can make your dog more excited, or worse, scared of you, and you more frustrated and annoyed! Set up ways to manage unwanted behaviors, so you can remain calm and prepared.
• Avoid tethering your dog unsupervised, as this can be very dangerous. A tethered dog can easily become tangled causing, choking, injuries or even death.  If you need to tether your dog for a brief moment, make sure you are within eyesight when a dog is on a tether to prevent these dangers. If you're unable to supervise your dog, opt for a play pen, exercise pens or baby gates, instead of a tether (According to California Health & Safety Code § 122335, tethering a dog for long periods of time can result in a warning or misdemeanor. For more info, visit: https://www.animallaw.info/statutes/us/california).

Ask For Help 

We understand that being a pet parent can be challenging, but San Diego Humane Society is here to help. We offer numerous options and resources for pet parents in need. 

Here are your options:

1. Pick up “Train Your Dog the Lazy Way” by Andrea Arden or “Toolbox for Remodeling Your Problem Dog” by Terry Ryan for lots of practical tips and suggestions. 
2. If you adopted your cat from San Diego Humane Society, you are provided with a cost-free, 1-hour Post Adoption Consultation online over Zoom. One of our Community Animal Trainers will help troubleshoot while providing starting points and next steps for you. Book here: Schedule a Post Adoption Consultation.
3. Want to learn more about teaching your dog to settle down and relax? Enroll in our live online or on-demand Reactive Rover: Mat Work class that focuses on addressing reactivity in the home or yard using mat work and the calm settle. Sessions are recorded so you can refer to the material as needed as you move at your specific dog’s pace. Please reach out to us if you have additional questions!
4. Book an online Private Lesson (1 hour, online over Zoom or in-person), for advice and training exercises from one of our Community Animal Trainers. Open to all community members, these sessions focus on environmental management, troubleshooting and training exercises. 
5. Find a positive reinforcement trainer that can come to your home to assess the situation. Find a trainer here: Local Positive Reinforcement Animal Trainer Directory. For additional help finding a trainer, check out: How To Pick A Trainer 101 and Trainer Danger: How To Find A Trainer Who Won't Harm Your Pet.